‘Caviar for carnivores’: Kokkaku in Wallingford brings it with beef

The meat-focused Japanese-influenced restaurant in Wallingford has a bare-bones feel, with food that exceeds expectations. Kokkaku means “skeleton” in Japanese, and there is indeed something of a bare-bones aura about this meat-focused, Japanese-influenced Wallingford restaurant. Passers-by peering in from the sidewalk during the dark of winter may find little to entice them inside. True, the …