Christian Dior’s show was the most overtly political of the Fall 2017 Ready To Wear collections.
Christian Dior’s show was the most overtly political of the Fall 2017 Ready To Wear collections. The fashion house seems to aspire to outfit the “resistance,” the moniker in use by the self-proclaimed anti-Trump protesters. Every model wore a black leather beret, echoing the Black Panthers’ militant resistance to the very real threat of police violence.
Denim sets and jumpsuits brought a utilitarian motif with undertones of Mao Zedong’s characteristic uniform. The light-wash utilitarian denim-on-denim with enough pockets to hold multiple Marxist writings (and not just Das Kapital) was a glance back to the 1990s same denim-on-denim that also appeared in 2016. It seems the Canadian Tuxedo will be staying south for the next season.
Black suede thigh-high boots and thick leather shoes had models ready for marching.
Dior brought back the cross-body sash associated with WWI suffragettes (not “the first-wave feminists of the 1970’s,” as Vogue clumsily described) as part of the season’s bags.
Despite all the black leather which made models appear poised for partisan warfare, quite a few pieces featured tulle, which was playfully tiered, ruffled, and even transparently worn over bralettes.
The final stroke of playful tulle feels as though it is contemplating transparency and femininity amidst the predominance of dark fabric and the masculine denim workman’s suits. The tulle is transparent enough to show the slips and bralettes underneath—this introduces a shock of femininity. Playfulness seems inappropriate amidst the overt symbols of resistance: the suffragette’s sash, the Black Panther’s beret, and the entirely black attire, echoing the preteen’s goth rebellion.
Last year, Dior debuted a t-shirt which read “We Should All Be Feminists,” signaling that the fashion house is sympathetic to left-leaning political causes. Any…